Step 1 – Try to reach the phone and trigger its built-in tools
First you want to confirm whether the phone is just misplaced nearby, in honest hands, or already gone for good.
- Call the phone from another number. Let it ring longer than you normally would.
- Send a plain, human text message. “Hi, I think I lost this phone. If you found it, please reply or call me at [number].”
- Use any “Find My” or “Find Device” feature you had turned on. Check whether the dot lines up with where you think it is.
Step 2 – Lock the device remotely before someone unlocks it
Modern phones are pretty well protected if you’ve enabled a PIN, password or biometrics and full-disk encryption (standard on current iOS and Android). But if the lock screen is weak, you need to move quickly.
- Turn on Lost Mode / Secure Lock. This forces a strong lock screen and can show a message with a callback number.
- Disable easy unlocks. If you used a very simple code (1234, 0000, birth year), assume it can be guessed.
- Log out of key apps if possible. Some services let you revoke sessions on a specific device.
Step 3 – Decide if this is “lost” or clearly “stolen”
Not every missing phone is a crime. But certain patterns mean you should treat it as stolen:
- The device moves somewhere you definitely didn’t go, and stays there.
- It goes offline right after suspicious movements (SIM pulled, powered off).
- You see password reset emails or new login alerts for your accounts.
- Your mobile carrier shows unusual calls, texts or data usage.
If you suspect theft, don’t go “play detective” and confront people yourself. Use remote tools, your carrier and local police. A phone is not worth getting hurt over.
Step 4 – Lock down your main accounts
The real prize for anyone with your phone is access to your accounts, not the hardware itself. Your main job is to cut them off as fast as possible.
Accounts to secure first
- Email accounts (Gmail, Outlook, iCloud mail) – they reset passwords for everything else.
- Cloud storage (Google Drive, iCloud, OneDrive, Dropbox) – work and personal files.
- Messaging apps (WhatsApp, Signal, Telegram, iMessage) – conversations and contact lists.
- Banking and payment apps (your bank, PayPal, Venmo, Cash App, etc.).
- Password manager if you use one (1Password, Bitwarden, LastPass, etc.).
For each one, change the password to something long and unique, then sign out all active sessions or devices if the service supports it.
Step 5 – Contact your mobile carrier
Your SIM card is tied to your number. Whoever controls it can receive SMS codes, make calls and sometimes pass basic identity checks.
- Call your carrier’s support line and report the phone as lost or stolen.
- Ask them to suspend service or block the SIM so calls and texts can’t be abused.
- Ask if they can blacklist the IMEI in your region (not available everywhere, but worth asking).
Step 6 – When to erase the phone remotely
Erasing a phone is a one-way door: you lose the ability to track it, but you dramatically reduce the risk to your data.
- If the phone still shows up at a familiar location (home, office, friend’s house), be patient. It may just be under a pillow.
- If it’s clearly stolen, moving around, or in an area you’ll never safely visit, prioritize your data and wipe it.
- If it’s a work or school device, follow your organization’s policy and let IT make the call.
After a remote erase, some services let you keep showing a “lost” message on the device, but active GPS tracking usually stops. Treat it as gone and focus on monitoring your accounts and finances.